The volcanic landscape north of Rome has been carved up by the city's nobility into a chessboard of palaces and estates and is home to a number of picturesque hilltop villages. The medieval fortress village of Calcata, which peers down on a lush valley of junipers, hornbeams and hazelnut trees, was once owned by the aristocratic Massimo family. Today London-based photographer Stefano Massimo has bought up five adjoining houses in the old town and converted them into the Massimo residence, one of the few luxurious retreats available for rent in this area of northern Lazio.

Hotels in northern Lazio are usually basic and luxury, while rented accommodation is virtually non-existent. One of the few exceptions is the Massimo house. Situated on the south facing side of the village, the Massimo house is the sum of five properties including the former village bakery. Inside, it is a warren of rooms of different sizes on different levels, most with rough, irregular ceilings that betray the presence of rock just behind the plaster. The most striking example of this is the circular bath with its shallow beehive ceiling: this was once the oven of the village bakery. The house sleeps eight and is available for rent through Rosie Sutherland in London (020 8749 9118; fax: 8743 5394). £££

GROTTA DEI GERMOGLI
Just off Piazza San Giovanni, Calcata (00 39 0761 588 003). Part of Calcata's latter-day Woodstock culture, with filling food (including vegetarian dishes) served up by American Pancho Garrison, a longtime resident. Open Friday to Sunday for dinner, plus Sunday lunch.

ENOTECA LA TORRE
Via della Torre 5, Viterbo (00 39 0761 226 467). Viterbo, with its fountains, Papal palace and intact medieval quarter of San Pellegrino, is not a traditional foodie mecca, but things have been changing in recent years. The Enoteca La Torre is recommended both for its extensive, reasonably priced wine list and for its creative versions of local pasta, meat and fish dishes; alongside the wine list, there are also olive oil and mineral water lists. Closed Sunday.

PORTA ROMANA
Via della Bontà 12, Viterbo (00 39 0761 307 118). More rustic but equally delicious fare is on offer at the Porta Romana, just inside the town gate of the same name. The soups are especially fine. Closed Sunday.

L'ALTRA BOTTIGLIA
Via delle Palme 18, Civita Castellana, east of Calcata (00 39 0761 517 403). For a real gourmet experience at prices to match there is L'Altra Bottiglia, an elegant restaurant which bases its success on a limited range of dishes cooked with creative flair by Sandra Caccetta. Evenings only except Sunchay lunch. Closed Wednesday.

BELLA GIOIA TRATTORIA
Via Tempesta 1, Caprarola (00 39 0761 646 963). The Bella Gioia trattoria in Caprarola, just across the square from the Palazzo Farnese (see What to See), is reliable, honest and cheap perfect for refuelling after all those frescoes. Closed Tuesday.

PALAZZO FARNESE
Caprarola (00 39 0761 646 052). The famous Palazzo Farnese is in Caprarola, just east of Lake Vico, north east of Calcata. It is a huge, frescoed pile designed at the end of the 16th century by Vignola in which the Renaissance curdles visibly into the Baroque. The palace and parterres are open Nov-Feb, 9am-4pm; Mar-mid-Apr and mid-Sept-Oct, 9am-4.30pm; mid-Apr-mid-Sept, 9am-6.30pm; closed every Monday.

VILLA LANTE
Bagnaia (00 39 0761 288 008). In the Villa Lante at Bagnaia, east of Viterbo, the garden is the thing. Montaigne visited in 1580, when it was brand-new, and marvelled at the playful fountains; today, there are no squirting trumpeters, but there is still a remarkable water-staircase, with its eddying ropework border, and a stone table traversed by a little channel of water perfect for keeping the wine cool. Open NovFeb, 9am4.30pm; Mar, 9am5.30pm; first half of Apr and mid-SeptOct, 9am-6.30pm; mid-Apr-mid-Sept, 9am-7.30pm; closed every Monday.

PALAZZO ODESCALCHI
Bassano Romano, between Lake Bracciano and Lake Vico. This palace, with its impenetrable allegorical frescoes, is still owned by the family, but can be visited in near solitude on Monday to Saturday mornings by writing at least a week in advance to Palazzo Odescalchi in Bassano Romano, c/o Amministrazione Eredi Guido Odescalchi, Piazza Santi Apostoli 81, 00187 Rome (fax: 00 39 06 678 9953).

AIRPORT
Calcata is 45km north of Rome. The nearest airport is Rome's Ciampino airport, which is situated 15km to the southeast of the city.

AIRLINES FROM THE UK
British Airways (0845 779 9977; www.british-airways.com) and Alitalia (08705 448 259; www.alitalia.com) fly to Fiumicino.

Northern Lazio never gets too busy, but temperatures can soar in August. Early summer and late September are ideal months to visit the hilltop villages and wander round the beautiful palaces.

Calcata does not have a tourist office but there is one in the nearby town of Viterbo with information on the surrounding area. The Ufficio Informazioni (00 39 0761 304 795; fax: 0761 220 957) is on Piazza San Carluccio, 5.