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LE SIRENUSE

POSITANO, ITALY
This has to be the coolest spa in southern Italy. Designed by Italian architect Gae Aulenti, it's an exquisite collection of glass, steel and white marble areas, with sliding doors that open to reveal changing rooms, treatment rooms and a relaxation area. The centrepiece is a cold plunge pool made of white marble framed in steel and set in a latticed teak floor. Beyond this are the steam room, sauna and 'bio' sauna (in which the temperature does not exceed 60°C and the humidity level is maintained at 60 per cent). All treatments are based on the Aveda concept, which combines traditional Ayurvedic therapies with modern research to create flower and plant essences. First you have to go on a 'sensory journey' to find the essence that is right for you, which involves choosing from a range of essential oils. Gradually, by a process of elimination, you settle on one which is incorporated into all your massage oils and lotions. And then you just lie back and enjoy. All this should prepare you for the delights of the Amalfi coast, the exhilarating drives, the tiny town of Ravello clinging onto the cliff face, a trip to Capri, not to mention Positano itself with its markets and cafés, bars and restaurants, millionaires - and every celebrity worth his or her salt who happens to be passing through. Then it's time for another treatment, possibly the Self-Renewal: a full face and body reviver.

CONTACT
Le Sirenuse, via Colombo 30, 84017 Positano, Italy (00 39 089 875066; fax: 811798; www.sirenuse.it). Doubles from around £253. Massages from around £69; facials from around £69; Self-Renewal Face and Body Treatment around £102. Three-night packages from around £715 per person (based on two sharing). All prices correct at time of going to press.

GETTING THERE
easyJet (0870 600 0000; www.easyjet.com) flies twice daily from Stansted to Naples from £60 return. It's a one-and-a-half-hour drive from the airport
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