You cannot prepare for Ho Chi Minh City at rush hour: thousands of scooters and motorcycles struggle for space in a rhythmically chaotic pattern. There are plenty of cultural places to visit in this capital city whose name was once Saigon, including the War Remnants Museum, the Reunification Palace, the terrace of the Continental Hotel (where foreign correspondents used to meet) and the classic, French-colonial General Post office. But the main attraction here is the nightlife and the shopping, both booming in recent years. The dynamic new fashion scene is responsible for modern versions of traditional garments, such as the ao dai, the tunics worn by most women. And the Ho Chi Minh version of pho, the noodle soup served for breakfast, is one of the best in the country.
WHERE TO STAY
PARK HYATT SAIGON
2 Lam Son Square, Ho Chi Minh City (00 84 8 824 1234; www.saigon.park.hyatt.com). When it opened in 2003, the Park Hyatt Saigon further broaden the luxury field in Ho Chi Minh City, which was previously taken by the traditional Caravelle Hotel and the 23-storey Sheraton Saigon. The Park Hyatt is within walking distance of the main attractions, parks and restaurants and is housed in an impressive colonial-style building. The smallest rooms are "just" 34 square metres and come with a walk-in rain shower and a view of the city or the pool, while the largest - the Presidential Suite - has an oversized whirlpool bath with an built-in LCD TV panel. The hotel also has a good restaurant, Opera, and a beautiful spa. Cookery classes can also be arranged.
WHERE TO DRINK
For a good perspective on the Ho Chi Minh City at night, try the three-tiered approach with the kitchy Rex Hotel's fifth-floor rooftop garden as your first stop (141 Nguyen Hue Boulevard; 00 84 8 829 2185; www.rexhotelvietnam.com), Saigon Saigon Bar at the Caravelle Hotel (19 Lam Son Square; 00 84 8 823 4999; www.caravellehotel.com) for the mid-level view, and Wine Bar on level 23 at the Sheraton Saigon (88 Dong Khoi Street; 00 84 8 827 2828; www.sheraton.com/saigon) - a sort of city eyrie - for soaring views over town. You can also end your evening at Apocalypse Now (2c Thi Sach, Ho Chi Minh City; 00 84 8 824 1463). It's entertaining if you are in the mood for a noisy crowd of tourists and locals.
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