There's only room for one street between the two mountains flanking Amalfi, but the town is a vital, sophisticated place. There are handsome dilapidated palaces along the waterfront, alleyways which become tunnels, then staircases, then open out into hidden squares high above the centre, and there's a Byzantine cathedral, at the head of a flight of steps - taller than the building itself. There are relics of St Andrew in the lavish baroque crypt, massive jewelled mitres and a lovely quattrocento Madonna in the museum and an exquisite little white arabesque cloister. Stay at Villa Lara: the six-room 19th-century villa is nestled within the terraced vineyards and lemon groves that sit above the town's main street, Via delle Cartiere. Thanks to its privileged position, most of the rooms enjoy a sea view across Italian rooftops and you can enjoy breakfast on the balcony. The rooms are bright, clean and have beamed ceilings and king-size beds.
Via delle Cartiere 1, 84011 Amalfi (39 089 87 36 358; www.villalara.it). |
