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From the outside, this hotel looks as respectable as its surroundings in Dublin's affluent inner suburbs. It consists of two buildings joined together: a Victorian red-brick with arches and Dutch gables, and a newly constructed grey-stone wing which matches the proportions of the older building but with none of the frills. Inside, things take a sudden turn for the flamboyant. Red, midnight-blue and white-and-silver walls are hung with baroque mirrors and abstract metal sculptures, and the lift is lined with studded leather. In the Library, all the books have been given new bindings to match the striking green-and-grey colour scheme, while the French and Modern Irish restaurant, Still, is a sea of cream leather lit by rows of miniature chandeliers. We didn't fall for every design element, but the overall effect is dazzling. The 44 rooms and suites all have flat-screen TVs, Wi-Fi, iPod docks and marble bathrooms with under-floor heating. Each is individually decorated: some are boldly contemporary; Room 101 - the high-ceilinged 'Experience Suite' we stayed in - is classic-with-a-twist: the furniture has a heavily ornate, Versailles look but is upholstered in modern, striped fabrics; and a sunburst-framed mirror that might look conventional on the wall is positioned on the ceiling above the huge bed. The bathroom has a large bath, shower and a second TV (with waterproof remote control). Downstairs, in the buzzy, low-lit bar, cocktails are dispensed at an Art Nouveau-style pewter counter. It's evidently a popular spot with Dublin's media crowd: I spotted a few faces from Irish TV, including stars of EastEnders equivalent Fair City, but the charming staff don't let the glamour go to their heads.
WHEN TO GO
Late September to mid October for the Dublin Theatre Festival.
ROOM TO BOOK
To enjoy a combination of modern exuberance and period charm, book one of the rooms in the older building.
CONTACT
Eastmoreland Place, Dublin, Ireland (00 353 1 660 3000; www.dylan.ie).
COST
Doubles from 395 euros
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